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Cambio Aceite Diferenciales Y Transfer En Nissan Xterra / Frontier / Pathfinder /Hardbody Rate Topic: -----

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  Posted 06 November 2004 - 02:16 PM

Para tenerlo a la mano cuando el espiritú mecanico nos invada...

Abajo están los créditos...

For search:
cambio de aceite diferencial
cambio de aceite diferenciales
cambio de aceite transfer case
cambio de aceite reductora
cambio de aceite caja de transferencia

Saludos,

Agv

---------------------------

Changing the differential and transfer case fluids on a Nissan Xterra/Frontier and
Pathfinder/Hardbody with R200A front diff, TX10A transfer case, and H233B rear diff.

Last updated 12/12/02

Items needed:
1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar, with a short extension. If you suspect that the
square head of your ratchet is going to slip in the slightly larger square recess of
the plug, put some thin cardboard or the like over the head to help close the gap.

Gear oil:
5 quarts of 80W90 GL-5 gear lube (3 for rear only)
(Rear is 5-7/8 pints, front is 3-1/8 pints, 9 pints total)
4 oz. friction modifier additive for limited-slip differentials if the oil you are
using is not LSD-compatible. Available from your dealer or parts store.

Transfer case fluid: Use the same fluid as in the transmission.
For Automatic Transmission vehicles, use 3 quarts of Nissan Matic "D" or
Dexron III/Mercon rated ATF. (2 3/8 qt. capacity)
For Manual Transmission vehicles, use 3 quarts of 75W90 GL-4 oil, which may be a
bit hard to find.

Large oil catch basin (recycle used oil at a garage or recycling center)
Toothpicks or other implement to remove gunk from threads without scratching
or damaging the threads.
A rag you don't care about getting smelly oil on.
A hose that fits over the nozzle of the gear oil bottle, or some sort of
pump, in order to reach the fill hole.
(hose should be too long to fall completely into the housing!)
This is the pump I have, works like a charm:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=37739
I have seen this same pump at Wal-Mart by the way.

Optional items:

Metric socket to remove front sway bar.
Thread sealer:
Permatex #14A Thread Sealer w/ Teflon (part #80631)
or Permatex High Performance thread sealer (part #25117)
or equivalent. Teflon tape is not recommended.

Important note: Do not open the drain plug without first verifying that you can
open the fill plug. You do not want to discover the fill plug is frozen after
you have emptied the unit!

Park the vehicle on a level surface before beginning and block the wheels.

Transfer case:
Locate the fill plug on the rear of the unit (on the left half) and open it.
Loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the drain plug at the lower front of the left half.
It should be loose enough that you can finish removing it with your fingers.
NOTE the when the drain plug is removed, the fluid will GUSH out and shoot a
good 2+ feet away. Lift your catch basin to the drain hole and be prepared
to catch the stream!
Remove the drain plug and let the fluid drain completely.
Inspect the drain plug for metallic "fuzz" and roughly note how much is present,
take a picture if you like. This is for possible documentation of any
wear problem should it ever arise. Some fuzz will be present regardless.
Anything that is larger and metallic is not a good sign, consult a mechanic.
Wipe off the fuzz from the drain plug, and clean the threads of both plugs and
holes with the toothpick, taking care not to break the toothpick into
the housing.
If you are applying sealant, twist your rag into a point and shove a portion into
the drain hole to wick up some of the remaining oil. This is to lower the
level a bit below the lip of the drain hole so the threads can be cleaned.
Wipe the threads of the drain hole and drain plug dry.
Completely fill the threads of the plug with sealant if you are using it.
Install the drain plug, tightening it to 25 ft-lb. Wipe away excess sealant.
Add nearly 2 full quarts of fluid. I found a $10 hand pump to be very handy.
Continue adding fluid in small amounts, checking the level with your finger via
the fill hole opening. It should rise just to the bottom of the opening.
(we want the threads to be oil-free if using sealant)
I was only able to add 2 quarts total, I presume the other "half" of the
transfer case retained some of the old fluid. Visually it doesn't seem
that all of the fluid can drain towards the drain hole from the other half
of the unit.
Clean the threads of the fill hole, wick excess oil with rag if needed.
Apply sealant to fill plug, install, and tighten to 25 ft-lb.

Rear differential:
Lower and remove the spare tire if it is stored under the rear end.
Open the fill plug.
Place catch basin under diff.
Open the drain plug and let the oil drain into the basin.
Inspect the drain plug for metallic "fuzz" and roughly note how much is present,
take a picture if you like. This is for possible documentation of any
wear problem should it ever arise. Some fuzz will be present regardless.
Anything that is larger and metallic is not a good sign, consult a mechanic.
Wipe off the fuzz from the drain plug, and clean the threads of both plugs and
holes with the toothpick, taking care not to break the toothpick into
the differential housing.
If you are applying sealant, twist your rag into a point and shove a portion into
the drain hole to wick up some of the remaining oil. This is to lower the
level a bit below the lip of the drain hole so the threads can be cleaned.
Wipe the threads of the drain hole and drain plug dry.
Completely fill the threads of the plug with sealant if you are using it.
Install the drain plug, tightening it to 45 ft-lb. Wipe away excess sealant.
Add the proper amount of friction modifier if needed, then add 2 full quarts of oil.
Continue adding oil in small increments, checking with your finger along the way,
until the level is just below the bottom of the fill hole.
(we want the threads to be oil-free if using sealant)
Clean the threads of the fill hole, wick excess oil with rag if needed.
Apply sealant to fill plug, install, and tighten to 45 ft-lb.

Front differential:
Same as the rear, but the fill hole is hard to access. Removing the front sway
bar may be helpful. You will need a short extension to reach the plug
regardless.
When adding oil, 1 full quart may be added before you begin checking the level with
your finger.


That's it. Give any sealant some time to set up, then drive a while and check for
leaks. Keep checking for leaks for a week or two to be safe.

Good luck,
Brent Scott / OffroadX / XterraGuy / likexterra
brent@xterras.net
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/xterra/tech/Diff_fluid_change.txt
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  Posted 10 November 2004 - 10:28 AM

:herido::/> Fijate Abiel, que los cambios de aceites de los diferenciales y de la caja de transmision, los han realizado en la ratita con determinada frecuencia despues de sacarlo intensamente sobre agua y lodo acuoso. Me he detenido a revisar detallamente los respiraderos de los calabazos, pues todavia no ha sucedido que entren liquidos diferentes a mezclarse con el aceite...cual seria la opcion para cambiarlos o repararlos? Saludos
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  Posted 10 November 2004 - 02:50 PM

No has encontrado agua en los diferenciales porque tu Fronty trae los respiraderos de sus diferenciales a muy buena altura. Lo que puedes hacer para asegurar que no entre agua es alargarlos aun más o ponerle un snorquel a la rata :herido::/>

Posted Image

Si andas mucho en agua, yo me preocuparía menos por los diferenciales y más por el mecanismo de tracción delantera. El manual del propietario te marca mantenimiento para Front wheel bearing grease & free-running hub grease cada 30 mil millas, pero si andas en agua con frecuencia te lo pide cada 3,750 millas.
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  Posted 10 November 2004 - 06:02 PM

Abiel Guerra, on Nov 10 2004, 02:50 PM, said:

No has encontrado agua en los diferenciales porque tu Fronty trae los respiraderos de sus diferenciales a muy buena altura.

Lo que puedes hacer para asegurar que no entre agua es alargarlos aun más o ponerle un snorquel a la rata :pateando:/>

:pateando:/> Aunque esten altos, si he metido a la rata en agua, y mi duda un poco se centra mas es ,a si el mecanismo de contraflujo que tienen los respiraderos se daña con el tiempo.. y entonces si entraria agua facilmente como lo he visto en muchos jeeps .(que supongo ,no han de tener el mecanismo ya util, por alguna razon).
Y en cuanto al snorkel, creo que no lo he considerado como detalle agregado pues no son frecuentes las "sumergidas".
Muchas gracias Abiel, y esa foto de la Xterra, esta ,perra... Saludos
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